Treating for Mites

This is one of the biggest challenges in modern beekeeping. This is a large subject with a lot to understand and cover, so this page is currently a rather long read.

We must keep up to date on the latest weapons we have to combat the mite issues we face on a daily basis. We will explore the options and share our experiences and some of the results from research other beekeepers in the community have shared.

One of the first things I would want to know when I am getting any bees from someone is, what is their current mite treatment status and what was used last so I know what I should use next.

Q: "We bought bees from you in the spring that had a new mite strip we took out after 6 weeks as instructed... what treatment do we use next for the mites and when?"
A: Since we keep the mite numbers low in the parent hives, using various methods throughout the year, our Nucs are starting with a clean slate. So, we send them with a maintenance dose to keep the mite numbers in check for the next few months. Since they have very low numbers when we get them ready and we add a maintenance treatment on the bees the day before we load them in a customer's vehicle, they are good for a while. Under normal conditions, they should be good for another 3 months, give or take a week or two. (more on that point later)

Q: "So what's next?"
A: Before attempting to answer that, I would have a lot of questions about the goals and conditions, the expectations, budget, time, etc. before I could say what I would do. This is an ongoing process with moving targets, so it makes sense to get educated as much as possible about the adversary and the available arsenal to take into battle.

Allow me to share some of the things we try to do and when and why, and why not and so on... then knowing some of the basic rules, you can form a plan and make your own budget.

There are multiple treatment options available, so understanding the options as well as the current "mite load" in the hive or hives helps make the selection process easier.

Since our bees are kept on a mite maintenance program, they are checked for mites and treated as needed regularly. Hives with excessive mite numbers are problematic for all the other hives in the area, so this is something we take very seriously. If we find a hive with a high count, we treat the hive aggressively with a flash treatment. Once under control, they get a maintenance round of one of the extended release type treatments.

The same applies to the Nucs we make for our own use and also those we provide to others. The mites are kept low so we can use the extended release treatments to keep them low.

We started putting an extended release mite treatment in each nuc and hive we sell as a prevention method for the following few months. Amatraz is the active ingredient in the Apivar Strips that according to the science, are good for a three months cycle before another treatment should be required. That is based on averages and of course there are always exceptions, but we have found that if a hive has low numbers when these strips are installed, this method holds true for the most part. We have also learned that the numerous variables in nature can cause these figures to change in a short period of time. The can also vary considerably from one colony to the next. Lesson being, nothing is absolute and double checking can pay dividends more often than not.

So since we have our bees treated for mites before we offer them to the public the colonies are normally good for a full quarter (3 months) after the pick up date. Check for mites quarterly and treat as needed and suggest other beekeepers in your area do the same. (see Mite immigration note below)

Generally speaking, when it comes to mite treatments, we like to check the bees before we treat to know which type of treatment to apply for the optimum results. Low infestation should only require an extended release maintenance treatment. A high infestation means more aggressive treatment.

We can spot check drone brood (when present) to get a general idea of the status. This method is a good indicator because Varroa prefer drone over worker brood because they get an additional three days to reproduce before the bee emerges and exposes their nest site.

However, drones are not present all year. So for a more in depth check using soapy water wash method of a 300 bee sample is a widely recognized viable option. Checking quarterly and treating as needed is recommended. (see How To Video below)

Note: Mite immigration from other colonies can and does happen. When it does, treating quarterly is not always sufficient, so this is a variable that needs to be considered. Assuming all is well simply because there are no visible mites on the backside of bees is one of the most common beginner mistakes. Because the lack of knowing typically leads to the lack of treating, which leads to colony losses. (see Wax Moths - Below)

When dealing with Varroa Mites in honey bee colonies, like most anything in life, the more you understand your options, and in this case the enemy, the better equipped you are to make an educated decision for combat. Understanding the life cycle of the honey bee and the Varroa mite are important factors that make it helpful to develop an effective plan of action.

However, that is only step one. Since there are multiple types of mite treatments available for honey bees and there are different modes of action for them, understanding these are equally as important in making your plan of attack. Knowing the differences helps to know when and why these treatment options will be effective and which to choose based on the findings of the mite checks.

We have the option of the "flash" type treatment (more aggressive) as well as the "extended-release" type of treatments. The latter is more of a preventative maintenance vs corrective maintenance application. Meaning, one type is to fix a problem while the other is to prevent a problem or maintain a low enough level that it is considered safe and acceptable. Occasionally they are both used at once, but caution and understanding the details is necessary to prevent over doing any one thing.

Selecting the "best" mite treatment for a hive is usually determined by the current mite load in the specific hive(s) to be treated. While some beekeepers prefer to simply treat on a scheduled preventative maintenance basis, others like to know their exact numbers and treat accordingly and only as needed. Thus saving time and money. So, depending on the mite load, a less aggressive or more aggressive treatment may be more suited.

Also know that each type of treatment has it's own recommended dosages and application methods, based in part on conditions, such as temperature and if honey supers are present - like during a nectar flow for example, colony strength and overall health and of course the current mite load or - the number of mites per bee ratio in the colony.

Overall, mite treatments for honey bees can be broadly classified into chemical and non-chemical methods. Chemical treatments include synthetic miticides like Apivar (amitraz) and Apistan (fluvalinate), as well as organic acids like oxalic acid and formic acid. Non-chemical methods involve using essential oils, drone brood removal, screened bottom boards, and selective breeding for mite-resistant bees.

(more details can easily be found using a search for "mite treatments available for honey bees" online)

So what are the “best” options?

What is best for one beekeeper, or a specific colony even, may not be the best for another colony, or a certain beekeeper’s goals, circumstances, ecosystem, etc.

There is really not one simple "one size fit’s all" solution across the board for everyone and/or even every hive. Please keep in mind that research has shown there are more than one strain of Varroa mite and multiple viruses they vector, so while having so many options does require a bit of understanding, at the end of the day, it also offers more weapons in the arsenal in the defense against the biggest enemy of the honey bees. (at least in our area as of 2025 - see Tropilaelaps Mites for possible future adversaries)

Many beekeepers like the organic treatments for many reasons, but they are typically harder on the bees. Some are easier to use than others and some may require additional equipment or gear. Some are hard on queens and brood, so we must be careful and always go by the label for the best results. Over use and / or continued use of the same treatment time after time has proven to cause the mites to build a resistance to the point the treatment is no longer as effective.

So, it is recommended for everyone to rotate the treatment types each round to prevent this from becoming a problem for the entire beekeeping community - as it has already been proven to happen with two of the first treatments used back in the early 2000s. They were taken off the market due to the lack of efficacy. They were Apistan (fluvalinate) and Checkmite+ (Coumaphos).

IPM, if you are not familiar, stands for Integrated Pest Management. It's a strategy develop for managing pests that uses a combination of methods, including preventative, biological, and chemical controls, to minimize the use of pesticides and reduce risks to human health and the environment. IPM is not just about pest control; it's a holistic approach that focuses on long-term prevention and sustainable solutions in agriculture in general, but applies to beekeeping as well.

As mentioned above, IPM starts with the low-level method approach first, (i.e. drone brood removal, screened bottom boards, and selective breeding for mite-resistant bees, etc.) can often be effective methods and reduce the need for more, but not always and not in every colony in every apiary. Therefore, we go up the IPM ladder to the next level to the organic treatment methods as need and save the chemicals as a last resort.

So... What are the approved organic options?

Formic Acid – 2 application methods

- Formic Pro

- Mite Away Quick Strips (MAQS)

Formic acid treatments are very effective when used correctly, but they do require careful temperature management and application to avoid harming the bees. The high temperatures should not exceed 86 degrees Fahrenheit while the treatments run their course. Meaning, the treatments need to be applied in cooler weather so the damage to brood and queens will be minimal. Many beekeepers coincide the application of formic treatments when it is time to replace queens.

“Formic acid is the trickiest miticide to use in hot weather, so I continue to experiment with various application methods to improve its efficacy“ says, Randy Oliver, research biologist and commercial beekeeper.

Note: Formic acid is corrosive and can irritate skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) when handling this product.

Also Note: Of all the treatment methods, Formic acid fumes are the only option currently available that penetrate the capping covering the developing pupae in the nest, which is where the mites are doing their reproductive dirty work.

Oxalic Acid – 3 application methods, 1 "extended release" and 2 “flash” types

- Extended-Release aka OAE (cardboard strips soaked with OA mixed with vegetable glycerin)

- Dribble / Trickle (mixed with sugar syrup and dribble directly on the bees between frames)

- Vapor aka OAV (sublimation via heat gun or hot plate – fogging the hive - see more below)

Note: Since the oxalic acid fumes do not penetrate the capping covering the developing pupae in the nest, this treatment method requires multiple applications (as many as 7, five days apart) to be effective during the brooding season. Therefore, the OA vapor treatments are most effective when preformed on a colony without capped brood or very little capped brood in the nest.

The OAE Strips - The new Oxalic Acid and vegetable glycerin product that was recently approved, early 2025 caught on quickly, in part because of the ease of application of the treatment and also because this treatment is safe to use while honey supers are on the hives. VarroxSan has been very popular and was sold out in a matter of months and was backordered from around May through July of this year (2025). This is considered a maintenance treatment rather than a flash treatment and can be left on the hives for longer periods.

More OA Options: Oxalic Acid Vapor

Oxalic Acid is sold in a powdery form that turns to a vapor when heated to 315°F degrees. At this temperature the acid turns from a solid to a gas, called sublimation or vaporization. The vapor of oxalic acid kills phoretic mites, which are the ones crawling on adult bees and crawling around inside the hive.

NOTE : This method does not reach the mites that are hiding and reproducing inside sealed / capped brood cells, so several follow up applications are normally required about 5 days apart and at least 3 additional vapor applications (up to 7 or more, depending on the amount of capped brood and mite load) to equal one full treatment.

Thymol - a naturally occurring chemical compound found in essential oils, particularly from thyme and oregano.

- Apiguard is a thymol-based gel that slowly releases its active ingredient, offering a natural way to combat mites organically. The slow release of the active ingredient ensures consistent protection for your worker bees. For best results, apply Apiguard gel when temperatures are suitable for optimal distribution throughout the hive.

- ApiLife Var, another thymol-based product, is also gel-based and utilizes a blend of thymol, menthol, eucalyptol, and camphor. This blend remains liquid at colder temperatures, potentially making it more effective in cooler climates. Requires repeat the treatment 3 or 4 times at 7-10 day intervals.

These products are not approved for use during a honey flow. Thymol natural treatments should be used after a honey harvest.

Hop beta acids – These acids, extracted from hops, are believed to kill mites through physical damage to their exoskeletons.

- HopGuard3, is derived from hops, like beer is made from, and is another effective organic method, but like OAV and for the same reasons, it does require back-to-back treatments when there is capped brood present. HopGuard is generally considered safe for bees and can be used even when honey supers are present.

So, as you can see, with multiple options within the options, it’s best to understand which to use and for which situation the options are best suited to serve your needs. The ultimate goal is to have mite resistant bees, or better yet, bees that take care of the mites without our help, but we’re not all there yet.

Meanwhile, the short-term goal is to help our bees manage the mites and keep the numbers in check so their populations stay in the economic threshold of less than 2 to 4 mites per 100 bees. This allows us to use the less aggressive treatment methods to keep healthy productive hives.

Selective breeding from stock that show the desirable traits for dealing with mites and the viruses they vector is what we, and many others, believe to the the long term sustainable solution. We are seeing progress in this and hope to be treatment free in the near future. Until then, hopefully the above will help you understand what is best for your goals and your hive's overall health.

Visit the Additional Resources page for more information and help regarding mite treatments.

Mite Treatments

Follow the links below to learn more about these options.

View the respective pages for the details and to place an order for any of the various treatment types available.

. Apiguard . Apivar Strips . Formic Pro . HopGuard 3 . VarroxSan .

Visit these pages for more information about Varroa Behavior and Checking for Mites with the How To Check video

Visit the EPA's website to review the EPA-registered Pesticide Products Approved for Use Against Varroa Mites in Bee Hives

FAQs & How To Info - Click here for the List of Topics

Please keep in mind that most beekeeping questions are best answered and provided as a general guideline rather than absolutes.

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